In the heart of the world’s largest non-polar icefield

All was ice, white curving fingers spilling from mountain valleys. Dark lines of ground rock defined each icy highway

In the heart of the world’s largest non-polar icefieldKLUANE NATIONAL PARK AND RESERVE, Yukon – I’ve been a geography nut since I was a kid. My noggin is full of useless facts. In pre-metric days, I memorized details of the world’s highest and lowest: Mount Everest, 29,028 feet; Challenger Deep in the Mariana Trench, 35,814 feet. As a proud Canadian, I knew that…

Of sour toes, midnight golf, and birds singing for sex and war

Historic, colourful, quaint and sleep-deprived Dawson City; and up the perilous, muddy Dempster Highway

Of sour toes, midnight golf, and birds singing for sex and warUpon our return from six weeks exploring Canada’s north, friends enquired, “So what was your favourite place?” And each time, gazing distantly while recalling the amazing scenery, people and places we encountered, I answered: “Haven’t a clue.” But Dawson City, Yukon, is a good start. I love Dawson. Unlike cruise-ship destinations on the nearby Alaska…

A soft egg in the Nahanni National Park Reserve

Discovering Virginia Falls, a remarkable UNESCO World Heritage Site – and learning a little German

A soft egg in the Nahanni National Park ReserveON THE ALASKA HIGHWAY – In German, weichei means soft egg. It defines a person’s character. In Canada, we call them wimps. Charly Kudlacek is from Frankfurt in the German state of Hesse and, as eggs go, is hard-boiled. We met Charly and his wife Marion in a remote campground at Summit Lake on the…

Riding B.C.’s hidden motorcycle paradise

The Canadian experience doesn’t get any better than this

Riding B.C.’s hidden motorcycle paradiseParadise, Canadian style, is uniquely rugged: long summer days travelling endless twisty roads surrounded by jagged mountain beauty, ice-cold deep blue lakes and evergreen trees. The magically isolated Kootenay Region of south-central British Columbia does Canadian paradise particularly well. The tiny, laid-back City of Nelson is the natural home base for cyclists and motorcyclists who…

Travel Insider: Post-fire Waterton; Calgary chef cruises to celeb status; a ‘vine’ sleep

Travel Like This editor Lisa Monforton monthly travel insider tips

Travel Insider: Post-fire Waterton; Calgary chef cruises to celeb status; a ‘vine’ sleepWhat you need to know about post-fire Waterton Two years after the devastating Kenow Wildfire of September 2017 in Waterton Lakes National Park, the town and surrounding lands are still recovering. The flames destroyed more than 190 square kilometres (73 square miles) or 39 per cent of the park, including forests, hiking trails, campgrounds, buildings…

Small cities like Duncan, B.C., steward great artists

Reflecting on Canadian culture at the Dog House Restaurant and small businesses dedicated to local artisans

Small cities like Duncan, B.C., steward great artistsAs cities go, Duncan, B.C., is pretty small. In fact, it’s the smallest city by area (2.07 square km) in Canada. In 2016, it had 4,994 citizens. It was incorporated in 1912, as the star of Vancouver Island’s Cowichan Valley, an agricultural, mining and logging centre first visited by Vancouver Island Gov. James Douglas and…

Sintra, Portugal, is simply magical

Sintra is one of those places where there is so much packed in that you'll say to yourself: "Wow! How come I never knew about this before?"

Sintra, Portugal, is simply magicalSintra, Portugal, is one of those places where there is so much packed in, so many fairy tale castles and brooding fortresses that you'll say to yourself: "Wow! How come I never knew about this before?" From Lisbon, a trip to  Sintra is a simple day trip, although you could easily spend a couple of…

Fundy Trail beckons you to get off the high-speed highway

The view along the Fundy Trail offers something at every compass point – crashing waves, rocks, hills, forests, waterfalls and streams

Fundy Trail beckons you to get off the high-speed highwayThis is the first of a five-part series on travel on Canada's East Coast. On my recent trip to New Brunswick, I finally drove the Fundy Trail and saw Fundy National Park. It inspired me to sell the province a new tourism slogan. The slogan, worth millions, is “Get Off The Road!” I’m also considering…

Motorcycle madness: what you can do to stay safe on two wheels

Be aware all the time. As soon as you start believing in your own excellence, a farmer will back his tractor out of a field, some dolt will pull out of a driveway without looking, or something will fall off that truck in front of you and you’re in deep trouble.

Motorcycle madness: what you can do to stay safe on two wheelsAlthough I drive at least 100 new cars a year, I also ride motorcycles. In fact, I’ve been riding since 1965. And as far as safety goes, things are worse than ever for bikers. We’re getting killed or injured in increasing numbers every year. The circumstances run the full gamut of riding situations and motorcycle…